A Thin Field of American Gewürztraminers
Wines with appreciable levels of acidity, like riesling, chenin blanc and Champagne, need at least a little bit of residual sugar for balance. Gewürztraminer, too, though it doesn’t have as much acidity as these other wines, needs a touch of sweetness — perhaps not even enough to notice — if only so it will seem pleasingly dry rather than coarse and strident.
“Dry doesn’t have to mean a total lack of residual sugar,” said David, who described some of the wines as painful to drink.
Of course, the gewürztraminers of Alsace, the grape’s home territory, all too often have a surplus of sugar, so balance with this grape is not necessarily easy to achieve.
Read the full article at: http://events.nytimes.com/2010/06/23/dining/reviews/23wine.html?ref=dining